If you’ve never seen Sofia Coppola’s “Marie Antoinette” — and you should, it’s a visually stunning film — it’s essentially the director’s reimagining of the infamous historical figure as a modern young woman in rococo trappings. It’s a movie I like to revisit often. And guessing from the Moschino Fall 2020 runway show, staged on Thursday night in Milan, it’s one designer Jeremy Scott enjoyed as well.
From the colorful layered cake that served as an invite to the pink velvet-draped set to the music playing out the models (much of which was from the literal soundtrack to Coppola’s 2006 film), it was clear that Marie Antoinette served as a jumping-off point for Scott’s latest Moschino collection. But for all its gilded details and frills, rococo might be much too tame for the designer, who decided to amp things up by mixing in anime details and streetwear touches — think panier skirts on hoodie dresses, denim suiting with toile screenprinting, waistcoat shapes. Pearl jewelry and silk ribbons are sweet in anyone else’s hands. But in Scott’s? They feel subversive.
And, of course, the man loves a literal moment, so Antoinette’s “Let them eat cake” translated into a series of dresses shaped — and frosted, even — like the kind of confections one might expect to find at the court of Versailles. It was excess in a tongue-in-cheek way, as only Scott can do.
See the complete Moschino Fall 2020 collection in the gallery below: