For the past few years, Proenza Schouler has lead the charge on a sort of covered-up aesthetic, dominated by sharply-pleated midi-length skirts and oversized blazers. There’s been a slight change in the air, though, first at the brand’s intimate pre-fall presentation where Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez confessed they were feeling that short skirt lengths felt fresh again, and then on the Fall 2020 runway on Monday night.
Lengths were, indeed, shorter, but that wasn’t the only way the design duo explored a more sensual side of their aesthetic. Coats and sweaters draped so that they fell just-so off a shoulder; dresses revealed small slivers of skin and skirts featured oversized buttons that gave the wearer the option of showing as much (or as little) leg as they’d like. Puffy, comforter-like coats and capelet-esque features on dresses in silky fabrics made the expression “just got out of bed” feel slightly literal, but sexy all the same.
There were still oversized blazers and thigh-high boots with a squared-off pointed toe, so it wasn’t a radical departure from where Proenza Schouler has been heading over the last several seasons. But it did, to steal a phrase from the brand founders, feel like a fresh step in the evolution.
See the complete Proenza Schouler Fall 2020 collection in the gallery below.